This Spanish restaurant on Ludlow in the L.E.S. (dwarfed lately by construction that's supposedly going to be a drab-looking dorm for the School of Visual Arts) is one that hides its core well. The part visible from the street is really just an anteroom and bar that opens onto a grate-step staircase that descends into the two dining rooms: one with a moat, the other with a Flamenco dancer on Sunday nights. While the moat was pretty cool, the live music and dancing paired even better with the tapas (aka media raciones) and sizzling rice dishes. As delicious as it was, and it was delicious, I couldn't resist the urge to cast some of the dishes as grownup versions of - in order - fish fingers, mozzarella sticks, meatballs, hash browns and Hamburger Helper. Not that I've ever actually eaten Hamburger Helper. All of which isn't to say that I don't recommend the place and its sangria.